Winter Warmer Wines: A Change of Preference

By Martin Tillier

To those who’ve migrated to this area from the North, it seems strange to talk about winter anything around here. It sometimes seems like we don’t even have a winter. True, we don’t have the snow-shoveling, ear-stinging, muffler-wearing kind of season that those from more northern climes are used to, but the temperature does drop around this time of year, sometimes even to the point where overcoats make a reappearance and windshields need scraping.

When those times arrive, people’s wine preferences begin to change. Crisp, fresh whites like Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio become less appealing and red wine sales begin to rise. Even die-hard white drinkers tend to move toward heavier wines, such as Chardonnay or Viognier. Of course, this is partly due to serving temperatures (white wine, unlike red, is generally served chilled), but not many make the switch from iced tea to hot tea, for example, so maybe other factors come into play.

Firstly, the food we eat changes with the seasons — fewer salads and more soups, stews, casseroles and roasted meats are prepared as the nights draw in. Even those who do not consciously match wine with food feel that this heartier fare goes better with a more full-bodied wine, and thus are more inclined to buy red.

Two good reasons, then, why red wine sales increase at this time of year, serving temperature and food pairing, but there is another reason, which I think is the most important of all. Red wine actually makes you feel warmer.

We have all experienced that rosy glow from a glass of Cabernet or Merlot. Indeed, in the heat of the summer, it can be quite unpleasant for some. White wine just doesn’t have the same effect, and this is because of fundamental differences in the way reds and whites are made.

All grape juice is clear. Red wine is red simply because it is fermented along with the dark skins, which stain the juice red. Not only color is added to the juice in this process, however. Tannic acid and histamines, among other compounds, also leech out of the skins into the juice. Both of these components, particularly in combination with alcohol, actually raise your body temperature. Not to fever levels, obviously, but enough to give you a “glow.”

The higher the ratio of skin to juice, the darker, more concentrated and more tannic the wine becomes. Grapes such as Pinot Noir have relatively thin skins and a higher proportion of juice when squeezed and therefore make red wines that are light in color and medium bodied at most. At the other end of the spectrum, the thick skins and low juice levels of, say, Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah, give heavy wines with often gripping tannin levels.

Syrah, also known as Shiraz in Australia, is, to me, probably the most winter-friendly grape variety. Not only does it make big, bold wines but it also lends a peppery spice flavor to wines, which intensifies that “winter warmer” sensation. For those who like an abundance of fruit, even in their dry wines, the Woop Woop Shiraz ($11.99) from South Eastern Australia is a good, affordable starting point. If less fruit, more spice and a dry European style is more your thing, the Jean Luc Colombo Cotes du Rhone “Les Abeilles” ($12.99), a blend of Syrah and Grenache, could be the answer.

Closer to home, a Zinfandel from California also gives the right amount of weight and spice to warm you through. Let’s make one thing clear. I am not talking about White Zinfandel here. Nothing against this ever-popular wine, but it is light, sweet and usually served well chilled, and so it just doesn’t give the sought-after effect. Zinfandel is a dark, very sugary grape by nature. White Zin is made by allowing minimal contact with the skins, producing that pretty pink color, and stopping fermentation before all of the sugars are gone, giving the sweetness. When made in a more traditional red-wine style, extracting as much color and flavor as possible, and fermenting out all of the sugar, it makes big bold, dry wine. One of my personal favorites is by Norman Family Vineyards in Paso Robles, and the name gives a clue as to what to expect from it. It is called “The Monster.” This is a little more expensive at $21.99, but while it lives up to its name, it is still soft enough to be enjoyed on its own, not just with food.

Cabernet Sauvignon is generally considered the king of red-wine grapes, and it certainly makes wines suitable as “winter warmers.” Cabernets are typically quite high in tannins, the things that cause the drying sensation and “bite” at the back of the tongue. This makes them more suitable for drinking with a meal, particularly high-protein dishes such as steaks. Protein and tannic acid actually break down one another, making the steak seem more tender and the wine smoother. Try a big Californian Cabernet Sauvignon, such as the 1975 Wine Company’s Amber Knolls Vineyard ($25.99) with a New York strip and you will see what I mean.

For white wine drinkers, the colder months are when those big, buttery Chardonnays come into their own. If you want a full-bodied white, but without the oak, try a Viognier (pronounced Vee-On-Yay). There are many good examples available for less than $20, and a lot of people in the wine business believe them to be a great pairing with filet mignon finished with a dollop of herb butter.

Whether it is to match with food, mood, music or whatever, the most important thing in choosing a wine, however, is what your own tastes tell you. The surest way to enjoy a wine is to drink what you like the most, and if that means drinking a Chardonnay with a steak, go ahead. It’s not as if there are any wine police to come knocking at your door to give you a ticket.

Whatever you drink, stay warm through the winter and remember, one of the joys of living in Brunswick County is that you are never more than a couple of months away from a warm spring day!